Bites of Guwahati

Life, times, moans, groans and grub of Guwahati

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Location: Guwahati, Assam, India

Saturday, September 10, 2005

Assamese food 1

This restaurant is certainly smaller that Paradise. The hand of the owners can be seen almost everywhere, right down to the plastic flowers and to the stylised ‘bota’ – a traditional bell metal plate on a stand – in which the bill is brought. On occation, we've seen the owners' baby on the waiters' laps! But first things first. It’s name’s Akhaj (almost impossible to translate or pronounce in English) which quite simply means ‘a meal’ in Assamese. Tucked into a by-lane on the Zoo Road (now RGB Road), it’s on your right just before the Zoo Road Tinali as you come down from Chandmari. One can park on the lane itself or in the small parking area next to the kitchen garden of the house. It’s on the second floor and a little bird tells me that the owners are on the ground floor. Obviously not intended to be used as a restaurant, I prefer to sit in what was intended to be the living room, overlooking the Zoo Road. The chairs are rattan and the tables stand on the trunk of upturned tea bushes. The boy waiters are all very friendly and terribly unprofessional. They all look as though they’ve done stints (or still do) at the owner’s house. After the mandatory glasses of water, a menu is again produced, once again to be discarded for the usual – the Sunday special lunch. If you let the gourmand in you take over, ask for the special extras – the duck ‘fry’, the elish & the pigeon curry are recommended, the rest are never available!
I discreetly took a picture once with my camera phone, which is thus of a very low resolution. However, it suffices as a guide to what you’ll get.
Step one is to set down each of the bowls on the table but be careful to define table territories first! Again, look for the kharoli to start the meal. Then progress to the omitar (green papaya) khar (I remember Aita –grandmother- would spike her’s with the fins and the tails of fish; I wish they would too). The meal progresses in much the same manner as described earlier. However, the difference is in the dishes. You will certainly get the shrimps and small fish fried with onions, a small bowl of char-grilled fish with onions, atleast one sabjee with local herbs (xhag in assamese). I’ve also had pasala (the tender innermost portion of the plantain tree), koldil (banana florets) and other long forgotten herbs and vegetables of assam here. All this is eaten with a base of rice & dal. Then one progresses to the meat – country chicken cooked in an assamese style gravy comes as part of the meal. The pigeon & duck is diced into unrecognisable small pieces and cooked in a hot fiery gravy, so it’s definitely No or MORE depending on which camp you belong to. As always, the meal ends with tenga, in this case, with two tengas; one with a piece of fish and the other with bors (fritters made with dal paste). The alu pitika (mashed potatos) mixed with onions, chillies and some mustard oil is also different. On occation, they serve a fresh mustard paste which licked with the food, is quite divine.
Tipping is optional

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