Bengali Food

As a child I remember the special occasions when mother made food that was not Assamese – Chinese, Continental (read Anglo Indian), South Indian, North Indian, etc. – but I never remember her making Bengali food. It was much later that I realised how much of the food we had on a regular basis was really Bengali, be it the Kalia or the Charchari! Anyway, to the task at hand – (East) Bengali food at Guwahati.
Right away I must warn you about one fact common to all Bengali restaurants here – they’re noisy, the floors are always wet, the wash basin unusable, the bare wooden tables small and the chairs even smaller and there’s a particular smell about the place! The décor is limited to a picture / statue of a God or a Goddess and the odd calendar, also with a picture of a God or a Goddess. Why they almost deliberately keep the place so shabby and want to make one so uncomfortable I’ll never understand but I do suspect it to be a form of reverse snobbery!  Anyway, no sooner than you’ve squeezed yourself into a table (beware; during the rush hour, you only get a place at the table – not the whole table), the waiter is sure to accost you with a ‘ki khabo?’ – what do you want to eat – to which the standard reply ‘ke asay?’ – what do you have? – will set him off on a rattle of the fish, chicken and mutton dishes of the day. The basic vegetarian platter (rice, bhajas, dal, a chilly, salt, some pickle & ‘saalaad’) is considered a given and not discussed, unless you want a special ‘bhaja’ or you are, or are in the company of, a hapless vegetarian! Vegetarians, the crispy fried potato juliennes are not to be missed. One goes to a Bengali restaurant to eat fish, fish and more fish. Gravies vary from the sweet coconut ones – malai curry - to the fiery mustard ones - charcharis. Of course, particular fish go with particular curries – prawns with the coconut, hilsa with the mustard, etc. The first to arrive at the table are the basic platters with a few designated waiters carrying bhaja and dal replenishments in one container with many compartments. However, the dried fish bhaja – a hot and pungent East Bengali favourite – though a part of the platter, has to be specifically asked for.
At Guwahati, the first area that comes to mind is Paltan Bazar. There’s a place called Maa Kali, which is the established Bengali restaurant in town. It’s off the Paltan Bazar main road – ask any shop, they’re sure to direct you. Make sure you don’t get conned into going into some other Maa Something-else or a Something-else Kali! Unfortunately, at Maa Kali, I must confess most of the curries taste quite similar and only the taste and texture of the fish is different. I’ve had their mutton curry, which I didn’t particularly like but the egg curry was divine. Anyway, the place is tried and tested and one is sure to get a variety of fish on most days.
My favourite at Paltan Bazar, however, is a little away on the Rehabari Road (thus, technically, not even at Paltan Bazar). It’s called Shrikant. If it looks like a temple, don’t fret, half the frontage is taken up by a goddess! The place has obviously been in existence for awhile as one has to actually take a few steps down to the restaurant. Unfortunately, the extra space didn’t change the size of the tables and chairs! However, on a few occasions, the floors were dry! The food format is much the same and so also the menu but the taste of the curries is certainly superior as is the effort to serve typically East Bengali specialities. The mutton here is also quite good.
However, the Bengali Restaurant I rate as the best at Guwahati is Ma Manisha (0361-2570630). Unfortunately it’s at quite a distance from the city centre on the Pandu Road. One has to stop at the Durga temple on the left and take a few paces into the adjoining bazaar. Turn left and you’re at the restaurant. It has two distinct seating areas – one for the hoi polloi and the other for the gentry, which space one sometimes has to share with the fattest dog I’ve seen (‘What to do, ever since the children have left – for higher studies – all her attention is lavished on this dog’ – the owner explains about the dog and his wife. I am witness to her walking in to check on him and give him a ‘rosogulla’ in the bargain, which he greedily ate!). The restaurant’s cash counter is also the glassed cupboard where the day’s delicacies are displayed – prawn malai curry, chittol jhol, rui kalia, a charchari of small fish, etc. Here too, the basic platter is a given but the range of bhajas and the taste is certainly better. The fish curries are all exquisite. The mutton khosha and the chicken curry is also very good. It’s always a good idea to call the owner and ask as to the fish available. On occasion, I’ve been able to goad him to go to the market and report on what’s available! Incidentally, if you have a sweet tooth, a few shops beyond the temple is a ‘mithai shop’ that makes wonderful rossogullas. During the short season when a particular palm jaggery is available, they make rossogullas with it, which are simply divine.